Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and tourists equally swearing by its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a select list of world cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it enters a global network of more than four hundred cities across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "stands as proof of its profound culinary traditions and dynamic gastronomic culture," according to a official from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 cities around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this venerable city is little surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's largest state – is at last in the spotlight for what has perennially characterized its essence: an immense passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a constant discussion from waking up until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and elevated to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, merging Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. The story goes that the galouti kebab was created to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates fresh harvests but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on every corner, there are small establishments and stalls – little-known treasures that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a unpretentious joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and complicated. The cook whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though say that their younger generation are unwilling to learn the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will inspire more people around the world to explore these stories and visit the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
